Battle of the Bulge - The Ardennes

Dec 22, 2024

4 min read

Updated: Sep 20, 2025

Our Journey To Bastogne

This past September, my friends and I set off on a trip to the Ardennes region of Belgium to honor the 80th anniversary of the Allied liberation of Belgium from Nazi occupation. Our journey, filled with historical exploration, reflection, and camaraderie, brought us face-to-face with the legacy of those who fought in one of World War II’s most pivotal battles.

Getting There: From the U.S. to Belgium

Aldon Collier and I started our adventure in Virginia, flying out of Dulles Airport on Play Air with a layover in Iceland before landing in Brussels. Our friend John Vranas, coming from Seattle, flew United to Amsterdam and then took a train to meet us in Brussels on September 3. Together, we began our journey.

Exploring Liege and Beyond

We chose Liege as our starting point, staying in a central Airbnb that gave us access to explore not only the city but also nearby regions. Liege’s cobblestone streets, historical sites, and vibrant atmosphere made it a perfect base for day trips to Aachen, Germany, and Maastricht, Netherlands.

Arrival in Bastogne: A Town Steeped in History

On September 10, we picked up our rental car in Aachen and drove to Bastogne, where we stayed at Hotel Melba, just steps from McAuliffe Square. This charming hotel offered an excellent breakfast buffet and a convenient location near key historical sites.

Our first stop was the 101st Airborne Museum, housed in a historic three-story home filled with artifacts, maps, and memorabilia. The most poignant part of the museum was a chilling reenactment of civilians sheltering in a basement during a bombing raid, complete with sound effects and vibrations that made history feel strikingly real.

That evening, we joined the Liberation Celebration at McAuliffe Square. The town came alive with 1940s music performed by a live band, authentic WWII vehicles on display, re-enactors in period uniforms, and stalls offering food, beer, and family-friendly activities. The square buzzed with excitement and reverence as locals and visitors gathered to honor the sacrifices of the Allied forces.

A Tour with Lionel Colla: History Brought to Life

At the celebration, we met Lionel Colla, a Belgian army veteran and WWII re-enactor dressed as a U.S. paratrooper. He also restores WWII vehicles and had several on display during the event. Lionel’s expertise and passion for history made him the perfect guide, and we booked a half-day tour with him for the next morning.

Lionel began our tour with maps and wartime photos, offering us a logistical understanding of the Battle of Bastogne. We explored key sites, starting with the Sherman tank, “Barracuda,” on McAuliffe Square, before climbing into his restored WWII-era Belgian truck.

Highlights of the Tour:

Bois Jacques Foxholes: The preserved foxholes used by the 101st Easy Company during the battle are fenced off to protect their integrity, but Lionel took us to a nearby location beyond the fenced area where the foxholes still exist. Standing there, imagining the bitter cold and relentless shelling, was a humbling experience.

Church in Foy: We were fortunate to witness a film crew documenting the return of the chapel’s historic bell. Inside, we saw relics from the war and heard from the 88-year-old local woman recounting her wartime memories.

Band of Brothers Locations: Outside the chapel, Lionel pointed out buildings featured in the series, including the sniper’s perch taken out by Shifty Powers and the area where Ronald Speirs made his daring run through German-occupied Foy.

Monuments and Memorials: We visited the Native American Monument, Recogne-Bastogne German Military Cemetery, and the 101st Easy Company Memorial, each a powerful reminder of the war’s impact.

Museums and Bastogne Barracks

After the tour, we returned to explore the Bastogne War Museum, an in-depth and interactive experience covering the events of the Ardennes Offensive. We also visited the Bastogne Barracks, the headquarters of General McAuliffe and the site of his iconic “NUTS!” reply to the German surrender demand. Adjacent to the barracks is an incredible collection of WWII tanks and vehicles—a must-see for history enthusiasts.

Onward to Houffalize and Wereth

As we departed Bastogne, we stopped for lunch in Houffalize, dining at a picturesque riverside restaurant across from Hotel du Commerce. The town also features a restored German Panther tank and an informative display about its role in the war.

From there, we traveled to Wereth, home to the memorial for the 11 Black soldiers of the 333rd Field Artillery Battalion who were captured and massacred by German forces. The solemnity of this site left a deep impression on us.

Malmedy Massacre Memorial

Our next stop was Malmedy, where we visited the monument honoring the soldiers who were brutally massacred by the Nazis. While the memorial was smaller than we expected, it was profoundly moving and a poignant reminder of the atrocities of war.

Reflections and Recommendations

This journey through the Ardennes wasn’t just a trip—it was an immersive experience into the history of WWII, honoring the bravery and sacrifices of those who fought for freedom.

If You Visit Bastogne:

Stay: Hotel Melba offers comfort and proximity to key sites.
Tours: Book a guided tour with Lionel Colla for a personalized and insightful experience.
Sites: Don’t miss the 101st Airborne Museum, Bastogne War Museum, and Bastogne Barracks.

Travel Tips & Hashtags

Research local events like the Liberation Celebration and The Freedom Trail to time your visit perfectly.
Dedicate time to exploring memorials and lesser-known sites like Wereth.
Combine your trip with visits to nearby cities like Liege, Aachen, and Maastricht for a broader European experience.
Suggested Reading:
- Those Who Hold Bastogne, by Peter Schrijvers
- Citizen Soldiers, by Stephen Ambrose
- Band of Brothers, by Stephen Ambrose
- The Longest Winter, by Alex Kershaw
- The Eagles of Bastogne, by Martin King